ETLB Squawk Forums — Archive

I am building from scratch, does team provide lexan precut for the windshields in their kits? I have a pretty good idea how I can do it myself if that's what it takes but a rough template would sure be nice.this is for the himax front and rear windshield.

I made cardboard cutouts first, they're all a little different.

I've noticed some 1100R photos showing rectangular windshields and some with curved windshields.  My set of plans shows rectangular.  Curved looks nicer.  Where do people get curved?

just buy a good quality Lexan and curve it. Not difficult, just don't do it in the winter or when it's cold. probably would curve better if heated a little to maybe 150. Not sure, I did mine in August and it worked out fine.

Ugh ok , the windshield has to follow the curves of the wimg , just sayin

If team made a himax windshield what would it look like

Mine is a Hi Max. Just make a cardboard pattern of the windshield you want,put that on the bird first and check it.
Then use the cardboard pattern to mark the Lexan.  Cut out and bend it carefully.
Mark and drill your holes, simply screwing it to the bird will crack it. Try not to put any in the High Stress areas (bends at the wing root)

I do want to add one thing.  If you drill a hole just big enough for a screw or bolt to go through, warmer weather will cause the Lexan to expand enough to crack the Lexan.  You've got to leave a little room around the fastening.  Ideally Lexan should be captured in a channel so you don't need fastenings or held in a rabbet by a polyurethane adhesive, but the plans don't allow for that.

Tom

good catch Tom.

I have read about the differences between lexan and polycarbonate.what you describe sounds more like polycarbonate. Lexan from what I read is literally bullet proof from a 22 round, doesn't require any special tools to cut out and is much easier to find.

Lexan is a brand name for polycarbonate.  The larger screw hole is for both acrylic and polycarbonate.  While it is true that "bullet proof" canopies for jets, windows, etc. are made from polycarbonate don't expect a 1/8" piece of polycarbonate to stop a bullet.

Tom

Hope this helps.  48"x 26" with 2" squares on poster board.
BobN

Hope this helps.  48"x 26" with 2" squares on poster board.
BobN

Quoted from bobnafe Hope this helps.  48"x 26" with 2" squares on poster board.
BobN

Thanks bob, but I think that is for a minimax windshield, I am building a himax.

for the previous poster I may have gotten the terms confused. Polycarbonate vs acrylic plastic.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hsls5ZPCUnE

Mine is Lexan (ie Polycarbonate) I got it from Home Depot of all places. Expensive, but worth it.
The major stress area is going to be the curve where the windshield wraps in 2 directions at the wing root. Mine is starting to crack a little after 7 years.

Hey Jeff
Just a comment here. Make your screw holes a little bigger than a body fit. Also do not tighten the screws like you normally would.  Give the plastic room to move. Expand and contract. If you tighten them good, with in a short time there will be "spider" cracks all around the hole.
Bob

I was rereading this thread and remembered that Lexan/Polycarbonate is very sensitive to solvents. It will craze in a heartbeat if doused with fuel. Also be careful spraying brake cleaner (both chlorinated and non chlorinated ) anywhere near the aircraft. The damage is much worse near areas of high stress such as bends.
Joe

Gyro, depending on what type of canopy you are wanting to use(open vs closed) make your frame first for a closed canopy, I started at the center top rear at the station 3 doubler (the station behind your seat), you can in a warm garage , staying back and not really close use a heat gun to assist in high stress bends you apply some heat hold position then let cool, it will actually try to hold the new cooled position to a degree, it definitely reduces the stress, just don't overdo it play with a piece of scrap first , you can ruin it with too much heat and distort to clarity.

Also Gyro, Team minimax online store has canopy kits. But I understand your building from scratch. It may help to just look at them though for ideas.

I just ordered the windshield kit for the Mini Max 1100 (my windshield was damaged in transit).  Haven't received it yet so I don't know what all is included but the price is only $75.  

I received the windshield kit from Team for my 1100.  This doesn't look like the windshield in my set of plans.  I'm looking at these parts and feeling a little stupid.  Anybody want to explain how to assemble this windshield?

I can see that the long curved piece fits over the short tubes and is pop riveted in place.  The short tubes fit inside the channel so I'm guessing the channel gets bolted to the airframe somehow, which holds the aluminum frame in place.  But where and how to affix the aluminum channel to the airframe puzzles me.

Next, it's obvious the plastic must be bent to form the windshield.  But I can't get that shape to form a cone.  And what holds the plastic to the curved aluminum and to the top of the airplane?

.  Looks like the windshield you recieved is cut out for a 1030F minimax.

.  The windshield support/rollbar appears to be from a minimax 1500 as the 1030 doesnt  use one.

. I think the square windshield shown in the 1100 plans is the easier one to make as there is no bending to do of either the metal or acrylic.

. You can always change it later if you dont like it.



kk








KK

It took a while, but I found the windscreen template for the Hi-Max.

Quoted from 437 It took a while, but I found the windscreen template for the Hi-Max.

Nice idea.

Short sticks or dowels free to slide up and down spaced evenly at the lower end would take care of the lower profile.



KK

I couldn't make the windshield kit work on my 1100 so I returned it to TEAM, ordered aluminum tube and Lexan from Aircraft Spruce, used Bob Nafe's template to cut a paper template for my own windshield, had my electrician son-in-law bend the tube and I'm ready to cut the Lexan.

I'm getting conflicting advice.  It's polycarbonate, 0.0600 which is 1/16 inch thick.  It's not a straight cut so I can't use the "score-and-snap" method with a utility knife.  Some websites say jigsaw with triple-carbide blade, others say use a heavy-duty scissors.  

I'm reluctant to spend money on a jig saw and special blade that I'll use once.  How well does the scissors work? What kind - are we talking about tin snips?  My wife's sewing shears?  Photos of your tools and finished result are appreciated.

Next question: I'll need to bend it to fit.  Some have suggested using heat to form it so there's less strain on the retaining screws.  Heat gun like stripping paint?  My wife's blow dryer?  

I just redid my 1030 Mini Max windshield. I found a half sheet of 1/16" Lexan locally, and cut it on my Dremel jig saw. I then cleaned up the rough edges wit coarse sand paper. I was able to bend it without any heat. When it came to installing it, I started at the top of the bow, and worked my way down each side. You know that you will have some scraps from around the edges, so practice on them first. I've tried the utility knife for small pieces for other projects, and I found the Lexan to be very tough. I scored it on BOTH sides, and it still took a lot of effort to "snap" it. I wouldn't even consider scissors or shears, unless they had a power boost!

I had to cut mine with a jigsaw.

Couldn't bring myself to purchase a power tool and special blade for a one-off.  Harbor Freight.  $10.

Let us know how it worked out?

Greg, the scissors worked just fine to cut but I can't get the windshield bent to the curve of the aluminum blow.  Intensely frustrating week.

I blew another $10 at Harbor Freight on a heat gun, good up to 1,000 degrees, which I used to heat the Lexan in the garage (it's about 40 degrees in Minnesota today).  The gun does produce heat - I melted a divot in the white plastic folding table I was using for a workbench - but the damned Lexan is as springy as ever, except for one ripple in the center of the windshield where I held the heat gun too long as I was distracted with the cord.

This is insane.  

The airplane was built with the standard flat panel windshield which I damaged in transit.  I wanted the curved bow windshield because I like the look better.  But I'm beginning to suspect I'm not enough of a craftsman to make one.

I'd go back to the flat panel windshield design except the plans say the Lexan pieces must be pre-bent so they can be directly screwed together.  That doesn't help - I can't get the stuff to bend at all.  Cut it flat and connect the pieces with angle iron?  Piano hinge?

You know, St. Paul Harley Davidson sells windshields.  Motorcycle windshields can withstand more than 63 mph, which is as fast as I'll be going.  I wonder . . . .