ETLB Squawk Forums — Archive

Greetings to the group.

I am scratch building a 1150 Vmax with the Himax (high wing) option and plan to support a full VW power plant.

Initial plans were ordered in December of 2017. Most of early 2018 was spent setting up the workshop, building the wing rib jig and starting on the empennage section.  I did purchase the empennage sub kit from Team.  I started on the rudder assembly but ran into an issue on the initial assembly of the rubber parts.  Frustration cause me to shelf that work for a short bit and focus on the ribs.

Summer of 2018 resulted in a break from the project due to other personal activities.  Late fall of 2018 I hit the workshop again and am now working fairly steady on the project.

I am doing things a little out of normal on the ribs by clamping the gussets in the jig Vs. staple. It is just a personal preference.

As of this writing, I have 15 ribs built and material ordered and some received to start building the wings when the ribs are completed.

Here are a few photos and if there is interest, I will continue this log as I have seen a few other do.
Photo 1 - Rib Jig
Photo 2 - Current stack of ribs.
Photo 3 - Rubber assy prior to glue up disaster.

Can you post a close up picture of the clamping method you devised for the rib gussets.

Thanks

KK

KK,
Here's the way I did mine and it worked well. Simple and cheap.

Quoted from Dick Rake KK,
Here's the way I did mine and it worked well. Simple and cheap.

Thats a good one.Shouldnt the leg be 3/8 instead of 1/4 as the claamp is going uphill with the 1/4 leg and will catch the edge of the gusset.  The sticks are not flush to the jig board as they are riding on the gussets which I think is of no consequence.

And you can not remove the rib till the glue dries which may or may not matter.

Thanks .

KK

Quoted from mullacharjak


Thats a good one.Shouldnt the leg be 3/8 instead of 1/4 as the claamp is going uphill with the 1/4 leg and will catch the edge of the gusset.  The sticks are not flush to the jig board as they are riding on the gussets which I think is of no consequence.

And you can not remove the rib till the glue dries which may or may not matter.

Thanks .

My 1/4" arrow was meant to show the thickness of the pine that I used to make the clamp and yes the stand-off should be 3/8"
Dick
KK

I started to build a clmap similar to what KK did but was a bit of a bother to use. I ended up setting the jig board up on blocks to allow clamps to go under the board. A few stations required drilling adjacted holes near by for clamps to fit.
After the first rib, I added small blocks under the clamp and on the gusset to ensure spreading the clamping pressure evenly. NOTE. DO NOT OVER CLAMP and starve the joint.
Here are two cropped phots (blurry). With my next rib tomorrow I would be happy to take a couple better close-ups.

[quote=559]Greetings to the group.

I am scratch building a 1150 Vmax with the Himax (high wing) option and plan to support a full VW power plant.

Initial plans were ordered in December of 2017. Most of early 2018 was spent setting up the workshop, building the wing rib jig and starting on the empennage section.  I did purchase the empennage sub kit from Team.  I started on the rudder assembly but ran into an issue on the initial assembly of the rubber parts.  Frustration cause me to shelf that work for a short bit and focus on the ribs.

Summer of 2018 resulted in a break from the project due to other personal activities.  Late fall of 2018 I hit the workshop again and am now working fairly steady on the project.


A little motivation for you.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QSq7kcJh6Uk  looks like a smalrt combination.  I personally woudl do a hand prop fly wheel drive.

Matt

[quote=559]Greetings to the group.

I am scratch building a 1150 Vmax with the Himax (high wing) option and plan to support a full VW power plant.

Initial plans were ordered in December of 2017. Most of early 2018 was spent setting up the workshop, building the wing rib jig and starting on the empennage section.  I did purchase the empennage sub kit from Team.  I started on the rudder assembly but ran into an issue on the initial assembly of the rubber parts.  Frustration cause me to shelf that work for a short bit and focus on the ribs.

Summer of 2018 resulted in a break from the project due to other personal activities.  Late fall of 2018 I hit the workshop again and am now working fairly steady on the project.


A little motivation for you.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QSq7kcJh6Uk  looks like a smalrt combination.  I personally woudl do a hand prop fly wheel drive.

Matt

. To get the wingspan from 25 feet for the standard minimax to 26 1/2 feet for the v max what magic is needed as the spar length for both

   versions is listed as 139 inches in the plans.



  KK

Droop or round wingtips.

Bruce

Quoted from beragoobruce Droop or round wingtips.


Bruce

  Can the same result be achieved by extending the spar length by 9 inches towards the wing tip ?



KK

You'd need to re-do the calcs as this will alter the lift on the wing, and bending loads outboard of the strut. Won't be by much, but why bother? The tips can add to the efficiency of the wing & are either available from TEAM or you can make your own - see http://www.lonesomebuzzards.com/cgi-bin/forum/Blah.pl?m-1421190968/s-0/

Bruce

  
  Very neatly made wing tips. I didnt know this tip shape was called the hoerner tip which I believed was the downward

  drooping one. Been using it on models as long as I can remember.

  Your tip shape is in fact my favourite one which I call the model airplane tip. It is very common on flat bottom winged

  model airplanes and also very easy to make. The minimax wingtip does indeed look unfinished altough easy to make.

  It wouldnt be wrong to say that  poor minimax infact has no wing tip !

As for the spar bending effect  between a wing tip installation or spar length increase I think either would have an equal

effect  as both increase the span by an equal amount.


KK

It's not a true Hoerner - that is a more complex shape (find it on Google). I just tried to embody some of the Hoerner elements in an easily made ply tip. A droop tip is not a Hoerner tip.

If you extend the wing 'as is' you will increase the lift pretty much pro-rata, hence my comments on increased bending. Although a shaped wingtip does increase the span by the same amount, it works by modifying the airflow to make the wing more efficient: less drag rather than more lift. So it wouldn't necessarily increase the bending moment.

At least that's the way I understand it, but as always, my opinion FWIW.

Bruce

Does it mean that the additional area of the hoerner tip is not included in the total wing area as it does not contribute any lift but rather

decreases drag meaning we still have a 25 foot wing but more efficient.


KK

The wingtip still contributes some lift, just not as much as a parallel 9" length of regular wing.

[quote=564][quote=559]Greetings to the group.

I am scratch building a 1150 Vmax with the Himax (high wing) option and plan to support a full VW power plant.

Initial plans were ordered in December of 2017. Most of early 2018 was spent setting up the workshop, building the wing rib jig and starting on the empennage section.  I did purchase the empennage sub kit from Team.  I started on the rudder assembly but ran into an issue on the initial assembly of the rubber parts.  Frustration cause me to shelf that work for a short bit and focus on the ribs.

Summer of 2018 resulted in a break from the project due to other personal activities.  Late fall of 2018 I hit the workshop again and am now working fairly steady on the project.


A little motivation for you.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QSq7kcJh6Uk  looks like a smalrt combination.  I personally woudl do a hand prop fly wheel drive.

wow that was a good video almost made me want stand up jump up and down and flap my arms.

welcome future himax buzzard!